Xeriscape Post-Again You Ask?

I'm sure some of you remember my posts this summer about the Xeriscape demonstration gardens in Colorado Springs. I went on and on about the "rules", points, suggestions, etc., etc. etc. Well for the past two months I've been trying to put together another xeriscape post from the San Antonio Botanical Gardens. The staff there has put together some unique demonstration gardens. They are well planned and installed exhibitions of "themed" gardens. I will start with the  Manicured Xeriscape Landscape Demonstration Garden.

On every garden there is signage explaining the details and management tips on having that type of garden. There is also signage giving the viewer the ability to call a number and listen to a recorded message explaining details of the garden. The signs were pretty dirty with droppings, as most of the staff was too busy hand watering due to the mega drought and probably not able to find much time to do housekeeping. Click on the images to enlarge.

The photo below is a wide angle view of the Manicured Xeriscape. Excuse me about this photo as it was a 108 and just a little bit sunny. The sign from the first photo is the same one on top of the small section of fence. Each garden has a sign with a uniquely designed section of fence below it. This one has a cattle panel section with a contemporary style.

Most of the turfgrass and plants are labeled. The turfgrass is zoysia, and yes that is jasmine ground cover. Many of you probably ask: how can that be xeriscape? Remember one principle is to put like plants together according to their water usage in the same zone. This example is a manicured garden for those who want to save a little more water (Zoysia lawn compared to a Saint Augustine lawn) and jasmine ground cover when once established can take some drought. Also you can allow Zoysia to go dormant as it is a warm season grass and it will recover when it rains. Rain? Well maybe. Once a week irrigation keeps Zoysia green and it can take partial shade. Also this garden has herbaceous perennials planted instead of annuals. Notice the architectural style of the small building. Each garden has their own unique building style.

 Decomposed granite is typical of the pathways leading to the different gardens. DG leads up to this building above with hardscape brick near the stoop. Wouldn't you call this manicured? I believe that is an existing live oak on the left. Shade is an important feature in this garden. Also you are viewing the sign and fence detail on the right which is an example of the next garden.

The traditional lawn. This garden is an example of the traditional American landscape. This is not a xeriscape garden.

I suppose this is not what to do. lol. Click to view the elements of the landscape and maintenance requirements in this region. Notice the high maintnance clipped Photinia foundation planting, Crepe Myrtle in the background, clipped box hedge, Saint Augustine turfgrass and annuals. It's actually a nice looking garden but uses more water to keep it green.

I suppose the only thing missing in this region is a Arizona Ash tree. In other parts of the country these plants would be interchanged with privet, large juniper, bluegrass or fescue turfgrass. The next four gardens will be posted in coming days. These will include The Texas Hill Country garden, the Cottage Garden, the Wildscape garden and the Spanish Courtyard Garden. Remember this tour was in late July this summer, so judge them on how well they look in this drought and what type of plants are being used and how much maintenance and water is being applied to "look" good.

Field Stone Edging DIY

 Adding Field Stone Edging - Down and Dirty
I've decided to do a technical blog post to share some of the knowledge I've learned over the years. I know its not rocket science but it does take some common sense and grunt power.  My demonstration will show effort I am putting into my own landscape, so the effort probably isn't a professional defined effort. In other words it's Down and Dirty. If I was getting paid for this it would be more refined.

First things first. Find some stone. Mine comes from the ditch, as my residence is in the Flint Hills of Kansas, limestone everywhere. Ditch stone is also defined as field stone, not refined, trimmed, blocked, or cut. Very irregular in thickness. If you have  some cash, buy from a stone yard as most of their product is picked and stacked with more uniform sizes and thicknesses. 

Notice how this stone is thicker on one end than the other: typical field stone. Beggars can't be choosers. I also got some from a neighbor I gave pass along plants to. What's good for the goose...enough of the cliche's!...

After laying out your outline or form along your border or planting bed(I like to use white spray paint), excavate deep enough for a 2-3" layer of gravel and a 2" layer of base material. And the thickness of your stone. Have quite a few stones laid out near you work area for selection. 

After excavating, add gravel for expansion and a solid base. I prefer 3/4" crushed limestone at 2-3" thickness. Unfortunately all I had was river rock which is more rounded but it will work fine too. Compact with a tamper and make somewhat level. More than likely the grade of the gravel will change because of the irregular thickness of the field stone. That is one reason why purchased stone is mo better.

On top of the gravel add some form of base material. I use gravel screenings from crushed limestone. Screenings are usually left over from the gravel sizing process and is leftover material. Sand can also be used. Tamp this 1-3". Tip on field stone: if you make this layer a little thicker you'll have more wiggle room in thickness when you add the irregular thicknesses of field stone.

Add the selected stone to the compacted area. 

Scratch or mark the area to be trimmed. Have cold chisels and handy hammer ready. Strike scratched line with hammer on chisel lightly the first pass, some people strike both sides or use a hand grinder to form a break line. Cross my fingers hope to die, stick a needle in my eye.?.  Hope it breaks straight.

Well, I got most of it right. When striking be sure the stone is stable with no space underneath the stone.

Place in excavation, tamp a little, not too much or it may crack. Top of stone should be level with existing grade. This is dependent on the slope. I usually use a torpedo level to check the heights between the stones laid. You can see I added chips in the gaps between the stones. You could use soil and add plants, add base material, or could use gravel.

Lastly back fill stone with gravel on inside edge for expansion. Level bed with soil removed or with mulch. If you live in a area with warm season grasses like Bermuda, this type of edging is not the best to use as the stolons and rhizomes will venture in. I have added steel edging on the outside of these areas.

Ohh...one more tip. Use your best stones near highly visible areas such as entrances and areas viewed from indoors. Happy Edging!!!